Beans are everywhere this year. Maybe it’s a holdover from the pandemic-rationing mindset of 2020, or it could just be seasonal, but I swear I can’t go anywhere these days without someone talking to me about beans.
Legume theories proliferate on Reddit. Some people insist you must boil them with baking soda (yes, if you want to flense the skin of chickpeas for smoother hummus), others say don’t salt them or your beans will be tough, and yet others say to never let them to get to a rapid boil.
I’ve cooked so many beans in my day that I think none of it matters much. This persnickety preparation lore can likely be attributed to fussy grandmothers who wanted to make much ado about something so simple. (You’ll hear all the same things from the nonnas regarding red sauce.) If you are serving beans as your main dish, it’s easy to understand the desire for fuss and fanfare, but just know they are really hard to screw up.
As far as quality of beans, people are splintered on this as well. There’s the hip Rancho Gordo camp; the conscientious Eden camp; the politically-charged Goya camp, and every camp in between. If you really want to nerd out: two hours ago the annual report on the Global Dry Bean Market was released.
Beans are an obvious STOCKED pick because they are cheap and versatile. For my beans, I made a derivation of Alison Roman’s “Brothy Beans” which are hearty and delicious. If you want to do the same and take my just now invented Bean Counting Challenge—you will save $25 in meal costs that can then be directly invested in your Ellevest accounts at the end of the month.
As you simmer, consider listening to this old song which is quite heavy on bean nostalgia.
Bean Counting Challenge
Day One: Serve them how you wish. I like mine with a thick slice of toasted brioche and butter. Give some to your neighbor. Maybe her name is Christine.
Day Two: Put a fried egg atop a bowl of warm beans and top with lots of coarse pepper, some parm, and a pinch of flaky Malden salt.
Day Three: Don’t be crazy, take a bean break.
Day Four: Drain all liquid and blend those beans with some EVOO and serve with a side of fresh ricotta with a drizzle of preserved lemon, chopped parsley, and honey. Add to a graze board with crackers, grilled bread, and fresh veggies.